What a “tunpu” is
Tianlong Tunpu lies in the Pingba area of Anshun, long called “the throat of Yunnan, the belly of Guizhou.” Over six hundred years ago Ming garrison troops settled here, guarded and multiplied; their descendants, the “tunpu people,” keep distinctive architecture, dress, food and customs — a cultural landscape unique to central Guizhou.
A village built of stone
Tianlong Tunpu is one of the most representative tunpu villages. Houses are largely of wood and stone, with stone walls, lanes and courtyards everywhere; built as much to defend as to dwell, the layout differs from an ordinary village and bears the marks of time. The old town also keeps courtyard houses, an old schoolhouse and temples — worth a slow walk.
Dixi opera and tunpu life
Tunpu dixi opera grew from the military nuo of the Ming army, blending ritual, drill and entertainment; performers wear masks and costumes and sing in an archaic style — a distinctive local tradition. Tunpu dress, food and festivals are also flavourful, vividly showing how Jiangnan culture was carried on and transformed in central Guizhou centuries ago.
Getting there and planning
- Location: in the Pingba area of Anshun, close to Guiyang to the east and Anshun to the west; often linked with Huangguoshu and Longgong;
- Time: about half a day for the town, old buildings and folk displays, longer for history buffs;
- Tip: the town is a living place — do not disturb daily life, and ask before photographing people.
